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Albariño has been grown for centuries on both sides of the Miño River valley (the northern border between Portugal and Spain), where its higher percentage historically distinguished the region’s best Vinho Verde. Today it is also grown as a variety to stand alone, in Portugal and in the neighboring Spanish region of Rías Baixas, (located in the provinces of Pontevedra and A Coruña, both in the ancient kingdom of Galicia, today termed an “autonomous community” of Spain). We discovered it in 1996 on a trip to Spain, where it was popping up on all the best restaurant lists, especially those specializing in seafood. It was love at first sniff, then obsession after the first glass: an aromatic white that actually refreshes the palate and enhances food.
In 1997 we arranged to plant some budwood from a famous Rias Baixas estate and put it in a windy, cool area of Napa Carneros. Three acres of Stewart Ranch is now dedicated to this brilliant grape. Each vine produces just a few small clusters, which feature the smallest berries, toughest skins, and darkest seeds of any white wine variety we have ever seen. In 1999, we became the first New World producers of Albariño.
This year’s Albariño recalls its predecessors: floral scents of citrus blossom, early pear, and lychee fruit jump from the glass. High natural acidity accentuates the intense, lively mineral quality that is its hallmark. Chefs often notice that this minerality makes it among the very best wines to pair with food (seafood, yes, but also anything rich or spicy, foie gras to jambalaya). And while it opens with an elegant, even austere profile, its focused and persistent back-palate fruit lingers hauntingly. At only 12.5% alcohol, this wine stays refreshing, allowing you to continue enjoying it through the bottle.
Our Albariño has now garnered a good deal of attention, not only here: England’s Jancis Robinson, MW, called it the most memorable California wine on a recent trip here. And in Iberia, Spain’s Club de Gourmets found “unmistakable Albariño character” in it. That’s about as good it gets, in our estimation, to have the wine recognized as true to its origins by those who know it best. Tradittionally released on Kathryn Havens’ birthday (April 1), this crowd pleaser is sure to sell out!
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